Devils Climb to Angelic Heights

Paul Prosser

Devils Climb to Angelic Heights

By Paul Prosser

Lightning, thunder and rain ripped open the early evening sky. Metal patio roof panels flapped and waved like flower petals in swirling gusts. This shaky refuge reeked of scenes from Dante’s Inferno, without the attendant heat and flames. Nevertheless, amidst the chaos and sodden air, hope floated over rivers of rain.

Thus ended of our day of studying happiness in Chocala, Guatemala. Before, during, and after that day I witnessed devils, Sun Devils to be exact, behave contrary to their satanic moniker. Before the monsoon, food and drink were cheerfully shared and support freely given on the bus. Spanish translations were made, ideas brainstormed and constructive criticism dispensed. Happiness was not only the work at hand, but the prevailing mood.

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Happiness lessons

Paul Prosser

Happiness lessons

By Paul Prosser

In the beginning our band of Guatemala explorers draws together like a clump of magnets polarized by the energy of our shared mission. At the end we dissipate like grains of sand between spread fingers. One of us stays at Lake Attitlan, another drops off in Antigua, three more head for separate destinations from Guatemala City’s airport, and two more fly away in Houston. Tears accompany each parting as the bonds we’d forged slowly stretch across the hemisphere.

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Broken

Paul Prosser

Broken

By Paul Prosser

My feet go free, I turn to look for a handhold, grab for a planter that looks larger than it actually is, extend my right hand backward as my feet fly in front of me. The full weight of my body drives my hand into the unyielding tile and I hear a sickening crunch. A thunderbolt of pain races from the heel of my palm to the tips of my toes as I hit the ground. Sitting up, I see my twisted forearm and instinctively grab it, pressing and twisting it to where I think it needs to go. Friends come to my assistance and want me to stand, but I refuse. I hear someone ask, through the buzz in my head and the rain pounding on the metal roof, if I can get up. I don’t remember answering. I feel hands on my back…faces shimmer in front of me, then fade to black.

In Chocola the previous day, Anne and Wendy from the Wuqu Kawoq NGO recounted the failures in the Guatemalan medical system for Mayan citizens. Mothers refuse pre-natal care so babies don’t get so big they need hospital care to birth them. They’d rather risk themselves and their baby’s health instead of accessing a medical system that lacks a human touch. That sentiment is echoed in San Juan in my conversation with Albino and Alejandro, two Mayan artists who visit the local curandera (healer) for broken bones instead of going to the nearest hospital. The curendara gathers medicinal plants high up the mountain, grinds and mixes them, burns them over a fire and applies the concoction to the fracture site once a day for three days. Alejandro says, in twenty days, healing is complete.

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Lost en route to Chocola

Paul Prosser

Lost en route to Chocola

By Paul Prosser

We packed up early this morning, halfway into our two weeks in Guatemala. Bags were hoisted onto the bus’ roof rack at 7 AM. A quick breakfast omelet and coffee and we’re off on a 10-hour journey to Chocola via Mixco Viejo, the Mayan pyramids. We swing out of the hotel driveway, the interior of the bus festooned in crepe paper, singing the birthday song to one of our fellow students.

Bumping down the road we are soon passing through Guatemala City for the second time. My senses are on red alert from information overload. Advertisements are seemingly pasted or painted on every vertical surface. Electric infrastructure crisscrosses roads and structures. Diesel and cooking oil fumes intermingle as we stop to re-fuel. The smell of chicken frying floating through the gas station is both hunger-inducing and repulsive. Back on the road, a motorcycle rider disappears in a black cloud as a local bus accelerates from a stop. Close by multi-story residences hang off hillsides facing the highway. Almost always their construction is incomplete and colorful laundry hangs from ropes, spanning rebar to rebar.

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Antigua

Paul Prosser

Antigua

By Paul Prosser

Wednesday morning. The coffee splashes from my cup across the table and onto the floor. Embarrassed gestures summon the hotel desk clerk to help me clear up the mess. The emotional din in my head is not so easily sorted. My embarrassment of riches never fades from view. Our modest hotel is not so humble in contrast to the colonnade of homeless in Parque Central at night.

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Guatemala? Imagine that!

Paul Prosser

Guatemala? Imagine that!

By Paul Prosser

The paper covering the exam table at the Student Health Center crackled as I shifted uncomfortably, listening to the doctor. Her mention of three upcoming vaccinations was not news I wanted to hear, but I accepted it as part of starting my Guatemalan adventure. Now I must tell you as an older student, my health screening was more rigorous than those for younger students—a gift of age. So, don’t get uncomfortable or think about the screening as a big deal. It really isn’t. Besides, suffering to further my education isn’t the story I want to tell.

Chris Rainier, the renowned photo-journalist from National Geographic Magazine, met with us last week to talk about telling stories through photographs and video while abroad.

“Visualize the story you want to tell then make the pictures tell the story you visualized,” he said.
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